What’s the one thing I’ve told you guys to study in the markets if nothing else? Forget? Well, let me remind you. The one thing you should always pay attention to is the US government long bond yield e.g. the 10-year US Treasury yield. Rates reached a low of around 1.6% in December, 2012 and now they are hovering at 2.6% as of May 10, 2014. Hopefully as you can see from the chart, rates have been coming down for 30+ years.
From this simple chart, you will understand:
* The risk free rate of return
* Expectations on interest rates
* Expectations on inflation
* Borrowing/credit costs
* Risk aversion, or lack thereof
* The health of the world
That’s right. By understanding what the latest 10-year treasury means, you will be able to save a lot of money, make a lot of money, and stop being an bozo who just follows the heard and listens to whatever people tell you to do. Think for yourself!
The tone of the article was inspired by a response from a “mortgage specialist” who wrote a book on mortgages. I received an e-mail from her asking me to promote her book. I congratulated her and mentioned I had just refinanced a 5/1 ARM at 2.625%. Instead of responding in a normal way, she replied, “Oh, no! You can’t refinance to a fixed rate???? That sucks!” I couldn’t be more disappointed with her response and her subsequent reasoning. I fear for the public if people are reading her books. Refinancing to a 5/1 ARM was my choice.
I’m dismayed how people are paying more in mortgage interest than they have to. A large part of it is because the media and mortgage officers continue to push people to get as long a fixed rate mortgage as possible. In America, the longest conforming standard is 30 years.
Borrowing on the long end is a suboptimal use of funds. The people who are pushing you into 30-year fixed loans: 1) Are not economics majors or bond traders, but journalists, and/or 2) Have a vested interest in you borrowing as long as possible so they can make as much money off you as possible. The higher the rate, the easier it is for them to earn a wider spread.
WHY 30 YEAR FIXED MORTGAGE LOANS ARE A WASTE OF MONEY
* Upward sloping yield curve. It’s important to understand that due to the time value of money and inflation, the longer you borrow the higher your interest rate. If you borrow money from me today to pay me back tomorrow, I won’t charge you interest. But, if you want to borrow money from me today, to pay back over the next 30 years, you better hell believe I’m going to charge you an interest rate above inflation to counteract inflation, make some money, and bake in some risk of default.
* Average length of stay. First of all, the average duration one lives in and owns a home is 7 years. If that’s the case, what on earth are you doing borrowing a 30-year fixed rate mortgage for? A 23 year + overestimation of ownership is a serious miscalculation based on the statistics at hand. With a 5/1 ARM, your underestimation is only 2 years, but you already have baked that in.
* Match fixed rate with length of stay. If you plan to live in your house for 10 years, take out a 10 year fixed rate (amortizing over 30 years) as the most conservative loan duration. A 10 year fixed rate is cheaper than a 20 year or 30 year fixed rate. It is only logical that you match your mortgage fixed rate with your expected duration of stay. Sure, you might stay longer, but you might also stay shorter as well. If you know you plan to stay in your house forever, it’s more justifiable to take out a 30-year fixed, but I still wouldn’t because 1) You will likely pay down your loan faster than 30 years, and 2) The spreads are unjustly high in this environment.
* Adjustable rate loans have an interest rate cap. People think, thanks to fear mongering by the media and mortgage officers, that once the adjustable rate loan period is over, your mortgage rate will skyrocket and make things super unaffordable. This is not the case because everything is relative and rates are capped. I’m refinancing to a 5/1 ARM at 2.625% with all fees included, and after 5 years, the interest rate can reset one time to a maximum of 7.25%. Whoopdee doo! After 5 years, if I don’t pay any extra principal, my principal mortgage amount is about 10% less. A 7.25% mortgage rate on a 10% lower principal amount is very digestable.
* If rates rocket higher, you will be celebrating. Things don’t happen in a vacuum. The 10-year yield is a reflection of inflation expectations. If the 10-year yield, and therefore mortgage rates are skyrocketing, that means inflation expectations are at the very least skyrocketing. However, you don’t have inflation expectations going higher unless demand for real goods and services going higher. Higher demand is a reflection of a stronger economy, and your real assets (property), by very definition or inflating! So what if inflation rises from 2% to 5%, causing your mortgage to reset to 7% due to the 2% spread? If your home is now inflating by 5%, and you have a 80% loan-to-value ratio, your cash on cash return is going up by 25%!
* 30 years in a row of deflation. Look at the historical 10-year treasury yield. Rates have gone down for 30 years in a row. That’s right folks. THIRTY YEARS! Are you telling me there’s no trend here? Are you saying that we are going to see massive inflation spikes on the way (which are fine as I just wrote) all of a sudden? In these 30 years, we’ve become a much more efficient society who enacts monetary and fiscal policy in anticipation or with shorter lead times. Yes, there will be occasional upward blips in pricing, but I highly doubt there will be a 5-10 year continuous ramp in inflation, which means your 5-10 year ARM is just fine.
WHAT IS YOUR PEACE OF MIND WORTH?
Insurance salesmen and mortgage officers are very skilled at evoking fear. They will paint worst case scenarios of super inflation and crushing payments so you can pay more money now than you should. Have a 30-year fixed provides a great peace of mind that your payments will never go up. In fact, your real payments will actually go down over time given you will be paying back a fixed loan with ever depreciating dollars thanks to deflation. The question is, at what price is this worth?
Given you know the yield curve is upward sloping, you must study the spreads between each borrowing point. A 30-year fixed loan is currently around 4% vs. 2.625% for a 5/1 arm. Let’s say you borrow $1 million, the ideal mortgage amount. $1 million X 1.375% = $13,750 more in interest expense you will have to pay every year for the length of ownership. If the average length of ownership is 7 years, that’s $96,250 more in interest expense you would have paid if you borrowed at 30 years. If interest rates stayed the same (not down as it has for the past 30 years), then you would have paid over $420,000 more in interest during the lifetime of the 30 year fixed loan! That is just ridiculous. However, if your peace of mind is worth $96,250 or $420,000, and you can’t handle the reality of economics, don’t know your options, and don’t believe in yourself, then why not.
BenGenie has telegraphed the Fed Funds rate will stay at current levels until end of 2014. I believe him, and so should you. Signaling low rates helps businesses invest and consumers to spend again without fear of getting railroaded. It’s the same thing with taxes, which is why the sceptre of increasing taxes is not a good thing. If I could borrow at a 1 month floating for the next 2 years at 1.625%, I would! Alas, I can’t find a bank to loan me this type of mortgage.
The next time someone is hawking you a 30-year fixed ask them: 1) What their major was in college or grad school, 2) How many times have they refinanced before, 3) Quiz them on what the current 10-year treasury yield is, 4) Where was the 10-year treasury yield 10, 20, and 30 years ago, 5) If they are a homeowner, 6) How much more are they going to make off you. Finally, refinancing now to a 30-year fixed from an existing 30-year fixed is a good option. Refinancing to a 30-year fixed is just a sub-optimal good option vs. borrowing on the shorter part of the yield curve. Both are good options vs. not refinancing.
Addendum: Please not there is a BIG difference between a negative amortization loan and a adjustable rate mortgage like the ones I’m referring to here. A Neg Am loan causes your principal to grow larger every month because it is by definition, negatively amortizing. The Neg Am loan generally is only fixed for one year and a teaser low rate. Hence, you have a lower than market rate + a payment that’s based on a lower amount that gets added to the principal. This is where people get in trouble. People who have normal ARMs have not been getting in trouble because when their ARM floats, their rates are LOWER than when they first locked! Please understand this point.
Recommendations To Save Money And Build Your Net Worth
* Check Your Credit Score: Take a moment to check your free TransUnion credit score through GoFreeCredit.com, a company I trust. 30% of credit reports have errors, which could put a serious hamper on your refinancing or new loan borrowing abilities. I had a $8 late payment I didn’t even know I owed crush my score by 100 points come up during my last refinance! The average credit score for rejected mortgage borrowers has risen to 729 due to more stringent lending requirements. Do you know what your score is? If you don’t want the credit monitoring service, simply cancel before the grace period is up.
* Refinance Your Mortgage. LendingTree Mortgage Refinance offers some of the lowest refinance and new mortgage rates because they have a huge network of lenders to provide mortgage loans, home equity loans, and home equity lines of credit. Consider using LendingTree to get multiple offer comparisons in a matter of minutes. When banks compete, you win.
* Manage Your Finances In One Place: The best way to become financially independent and protect yourself is to get a handle on your finances by signing up with Personal Capital. They are a free online platform which aggregates all your financial accounts in one place so you can see where you can optimize. Before Personal Capital, I had to log into eight different systems to track 25+ difference accounts (brokerage, multiple banks, 401K, etc) to manage my finances. Now, I can just log into Personal Capital to see how my stock accounts are doing and how my net worth is progressing. I keep track of all my properties with their easy to update net worth dashboard. The best feature is their free Portfolio Fee Analyzer, which is now saving me over $1,500 a year in fees I had no idea I was paying.
Post Updated: 5/2014